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Das Auto

Volkswagen's Autostadt - "Car City" - Wolfsburg, GermanyIt’s no secret that Germans love their cars. Buying a new car in Germany is significantly different, however, than it is in the U.S. In the U.S., cars are manufactured and sent to a car dealer, where they sit on vast lots waiting to be purchased. A buyer goes to the lot, does a little test drive, negotiates the sale of the car (sometimes under high pressure), and drives away hours later with a brand new car and a big loan. The buyer has to basically choose from the cars in the dealer’s inventory, which sometimes means not getting all the features, or color of car, one really hoped for. The American car-buying system really plays into that American sense of “I must have it now, whether I can afford it or not.”

In Germany, car buying is a much slower process that requires patience. Dealers do not have vast lots of new cars waiting to be sold and driven away the same day. In fact, most dealers I have seen can be quite small. They usually have a showroom with a sampling of model cars that one can browse through and test drive. The buyer then negotiates the sale with the dealer. You order the car with the color and features you want, and the car is then manufactured based on that order. This can take months of waiting for your new car, but then one day it is delivered to the dealer and you pick it up. I like this idea of getting exactly what you want in a car, and it seems more efficient only to manufacture on demand instead of having vast lots of inventory.

Volkswagen's Autostadt - "Car City" - Wolfsburg, Germany

Maybe we should have bought this Beetle?

This past summer The Mann and I decided it was time to get a much smaller and more efficient car than the one we had. We decided to go with one of the Volkswagen models. We also decided to try going car-free for a few months, so The Mann traded in the car in August. And we waited. And waited. Our new car finally decided to make its appearance in early December.

In this land of cars, we thought it would be fun to pick up our new car at the holy mecca of German cars – Autostadt in Wolfsburg, Germany. Autostadt means “car city” and it’s a car theme park built next to the Volkswagen factory in Wolfsburg. Indeed, there is nothing else in Wolfsburg except a breezy ICE stop for the trains headed to Berlin.

When you buy a new car from Volkswagen, you have the option to pay a bit extra for the option of picking the car up at Autostadt, and staying in a swanky hotel, instead of picking the car up at your local dealer. For car enthusiasts who just want to visit Autostadt, there is no need to spend so much money on a new car just to visit. You simply show up, cough up 15 Euro, and you’re in. For non-car enthusiasts, it might be a boring place.

Volkswagen's Autostadt - "Car City" - Wolfsburg, Germany

The car museum at Autostadt

Autostadt includes a groovy car museum with mirrored ceilings, and showroom pavilions for each of the Volkswagen car brands: Volkswagen, Audi, Lamborghini, Skoda, etc. You can take a factory tour and do other fun things. Since it was December, there was a little Christmas market on the campus that included an ice rink where kids could skate by day, and by night, it featured some kind of freakish Bavarians on ice show with a firework happy ending.

But first, we had to pick up our new car at the customer center. You sign in, and once you see your name on the electronic reader board, you meet a Volkswagen representative who greets you and leads you to the car. Except our greeter dude did that thing where he assumed we were married, and he greeted me first by bellowing out a Guten Tag, Frau The Mann! Ummm….that’s not my last name, greeter dude. I’m Frau Resident Evil Resident on Earth.

Anyway, he led us down to the showroom floor where our car was eagerly waiting for us. Then the ceremony commences. They take your photo with your car, and you are met with congratulations, a pat on the back, and in true German style, a thorough explanation of the features and buttons of your new lean, mean, German driving machine. Then you drive out of the building with a happy little wave, and you take your new wheels for a speedy lap around the autobahn.

Though it appears new cars in Germany do not come with a full tank of gas, like they do in the U.S. This fact rather astonished me. After buying thousands of Euros worth of new car, the least they could do for you is give you a tank of gas! The Mann said they were generous in that they even gave us a quarter of tank. He says usually they give you enough to just get to the nearest gas station on fumes.

Volkswagen's Autostadt - "Car City" - Wolfsburg, Germany

The Volkswagen pavilion at Autostadt

The next day, we hit the other features of the Autostadt. I was amazed at the sleek design and style of the showroom buildings (something dearly lacking, I think, in the U.S.). The showrooms usually featured a few models of pre-versions of their cars. Some were really interactive, where you could sit in the cars or do other fun things.

And then there was the Lamborghini pavilion. You were ushered into a dark jail cell, and as you cling to the bars, you see a yellow Lamborghini mounted to a wall. Yes. Apparently the lights dim, they fill the room with dry ice smoke, and the car appears to vanish, but in reality it’s mounted on a circular disk that flips around so the car is on the outside of the building. BUT, not wishing to be in a dark jail cell crowded with smelly teenagers, we broke out and fled the premises. It was so not our thing. You couldn’t even get close to the car. Pffft…. And jail? Come on.

Volkswagen's Autostadt - "Car City" - Wolfsburg, Germany

One of the car towers

My favorite part of the Autostadt included two experiences. First, on the site there are two temples of cars – glass towers that hold the new cars until the owners come and pick them up. I was really amazed at the engineering and style of it. Basically, an arm picks up a car with a plate that slides beneath the car and places it on a bigger plate. It then lifts the car up through the tower and deposits it in a slot. A car vending machine, of sorts (see my video at the bottom of this post). When a car is ready to be picked up, the car is removed from its slot and placed on a conveyor belt that moves the car underground to the customer service center, where it is polished one last time, given its license plates, and then given to the new owner. For 8 Euro, you can book a tour to ride in a box that takes you to the top of the tower. I giggled with glee the whole ride up.

Also, on the campus there are tracks for off-road driving. You can drive a Volkswagen SUV around a track that includes fun things like driving up stairs, driving over railroad tracks, driving through pipe tunnels, water puddles, steep hills, and other adventurous things. You pay 15 Euro for a small SUV or 25 Euro for a bigger SUV. An employee sits with you in the car to show you how to drive and to make sure you don’t do anything too stupid. It was a total blast.

Volkswagen's Autostadt - "Car City" - Wolfsburg, Germany

Volkswagen's Autostadt - "Car City" - Wolfsburg, Germany

Volkswagen's Autostadt - "Car City" - Wolfsburg, Germany

Volkswagen's Autostadt - "Car City" - Wolfsburg, Germany

Volkswagen's Autostadt - "Car City" - Wolfsburg, Germany

Tower of Cars from Resident on Earth on Vimeo.

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Parrots in Cologne

Who knew parrots have gone rogue in Cologne??

20111209-092755.jpg

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Two Years in Germany

SpeyerTwo years ago today, The Mann and I touched down in a Lufthansa plane at the Frankfurt airport, and my life in Germany began. I can hardly believe I’ve been here for two years. In some ways, it feels like I just got here, yet at the same time I’m amazed at how far I’ve come.

I spent my first few months in Germany doing nothing but exploring my new world. Time seemed to pass so slowly then, and my new environment was filled with magic and newness. Now, it’s just normal life. I feel very lucky to have found an exciting job in my profession, and now Germany feels more like a place where I live and work.

I still have a long way to go with my German language skills, but now I can watch TV and movies in German, carry on a conversation, boot people out of my reserved seat on trains, and comfortably understand a lot. There are still times when I can’t seem to speak a word of German, such as when I’m exhausted, but overall I’m amazed at how second nature much of it has become.

I’m grasping a deeper understanding of the country and the culture. There are certain things that I’m beginning to intensely dislike. But one thing has not changed in these two years. I’m still living my dream here in Germany.

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Earthquake with Chocolate

One of my funniest German language mistakes happened recently at a Christmas market, when I stopped at one of the huts that had mountains of sweets. Without thinking, I mixed up Erdnuss (peanut or “earth nut”) with Erdbeben (earthquake) and asked for an earthquake with chocolate.

And, oh, the ground shook when I tasted it.

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Istria = Foodcation

Agrotourism Gologorički Dol

Agrotourizam Dol

The Istrian peninsula has a proud tradition of locally sourced and delicious food. I heard that Istrian food is grown and farmed within a 10 km radius of where it’s eaten. Intrigued by the thought of feasting on local and seasonal food, we decided to make our Croatian vacation this past September into a foodcation.

There doesn’t seem to be much material out there about Istria and Istrian food. Istria is touted as being similar to Tuscany in food and looks, which I think is a stretch, but in its own right it quietly makes yummy wines, olive oil, and hearty, simple food, mixed in with some hysteria over truffles. Indeed, the Istria Gourmet website is intent on smothering you with all the culinary experiences you must try in the region. I downloaded their free PDF guide, which was indispensible for our trip. The guide also details where you can go to find all this wonderful food.

Agrotourism Gologorički Dol

View from our balcony

In the interior of Istria, there are several agrotourisms/farms that open their doors to visitors. You can either make a reservation to eat a meal with one, or you can stay overnight, keep eating, and involve yourself in the farm activities. Many even invite you to learn to cook with them. If you eat only a meal, it’s not like a restaurant where you order food. They cook what they cook and that’s what they bring out to you.

After some research, we decided to book a week at the Agrotourizam Dol, near Pazin in the heart of Istria. I found it through the Central Istria Tourist Board website. It took a few tries to get an email response back, but I’m glad I was patient. The value, at 35 Euro/265 Croatian Kuna per night for a double room, was astonishing. Especially for the quality of food we ate there. The breakfasts were included, and the evening meals cost around 7 Euro without wine. But the wine itself was also a total bargain.

We were truthfully a bit nervous when we arrived, wondering what we were getting into as we drove our rental car down a scary, long, very steep country road to the bottom of the valley where the agrotourism is happily situated. We were hoping for a quiet week in the wilderness, and it looked like our wish was granted!

Agrotourism Gologorički Dol

Just like at Grandma and Grandpa's

The room turned out to be fine and was clean, homey, and simple. The bed had worn, smooth sheets that smelled of sunlight. There was a balcony where we could sit and look out over the farm. The Mann and I are really not fussy travelers, but we would have gladly paid more for just a bit more luxury. The teeny tiny bathroom frustrated us both and the shower was both weak and painful at the same time, and either extremely hot or extremely cold. The balcony had wooden stools to sit on, but after some time we (and our aching backsides) were desperately wishing for normal chairs. But at 35 Euro per night, who’s to complain?

Agrotourism Gologorički Dol

Asses!

The farm naturally had an abundance of animals: Horses, ponies, donkeys, sheep, goats, pigs, chickens, cows, and these gorgeous, silvery gray Istrian oxen with pretty faces. The oxen were also, well, delicious. Burp. The roosters woke us up every morning, except for when the noisy Italian family moved into the room next door and we woke up to the crowing of the mother screaming at her son: Massimo! Basta! Oh, little Massimo was a terror, indeed.

The entire family works together on the farm. The mother cooks and runs the restaurant. One of the daughters helps out serving the food. She spoke English, and the rest of the family spoke Croatian and Italian. When the daughter wasn’t there to help us, I resurrected my horrible Italian. It made me want to start studying Italian again. The family has been farming in this location for generations and they are very proud of their food and wine making.

Agrotourism Gologorički Dol

The restaurant, where the magic happens

The restaurant is on the bottom floor of the main house and is a cozy, long room with stone walls and a stone fireplace. There are several picnic type tables with benches. The main action seems to take place on the weekends, when the farm and restaurant are bursting to capacity with local people and late-night parties. The family doesn’t cook on weeknights, unless you arrive on a weeknight, and then they will make you a meal. With all the busyness over the weekend, we didn’t quite get the quiet retreat we were looking for, but that’s OK, the food more than made up for it.

The food. It was a revelation. It was honestly some of the best food I have ever tasted in my life. I didn’t know it could be like this! I’ve never eaten food that fits so holistically with the surrounding environment. It tasted like the farm. I could taste the animal in the cheese. The fresh milk actually had a taste.

The food was sourced from the farm. Almost everything that hit our plate came from their farm and their hands.

Agrotourism Gologorički Dol

Everything is homemade. See the shaving marks in the ham?

For breakfast: Fresh bread, creamy butter, and marmalade that melted in your mouth. Homemade cheeses and dried ham (prosciutto). And, sometimes, they would bring out the Uštipci, doughnut-like things that went so perfectly with honey.

The evening meals were heavenly. They started with bread and an Istrian soup such as Maneštra, with corn, beans, and vegetables (and an incredible, tasty texture) or a chicken noodle soup with a nourishing broth and fine, handmade strands of angel hair pasta. The second course usually consisted of meats and pastas. Handmade penne and ravioli topped with a ragu of tender Istrian cow. Peppers stuffed with mashed meat and onion, and served with potatoes and sauce.

You could wash down the meals with homemade red wine that came from the vineyard down the valley from the farmhouse – it was a surprisingly very drinkable table wine. Nourishing, simple, and smooth. The wine was served in an Istrian ceramic pitcher.

Agrotourism Gologorički Dol

Mmmm...the bread

And then, the crowning achievement, the meal I am still thinking about to this day. We were lucky that on the Saturday night of our stay, the farm was hosting a traditional Istrian wedding meal and celebration for some local folks. The meal was a Pašticada, a traditional beef dish that is marinated in yummy things for a day and then slow-cooked with more yummy things, including red wine. The farm had a stone hut with an open-fire oven where this cooked. The entire day we smelled the roasting meat, as the smoke wafted out of the chimney and right to our balcony. The meat was served on an enormous platter, along with homemade gnocchi and roasted vegetables. The meat pieces were caramelized on the outside and tender on the inside. Sigh. My only regret was that I was so happily eating I never took a photo of it.

Remarkably, dessert was served after the meals. Plates of cookies or a Palatschinke, a crepe-like nummy thing folded around fresh marmalade.

Then, when you are sure you are so full you will never be able to waddle back to your room, they present grappa with herbs or honey to help you digest the feast.

A side effect of staying with them for a week is that the more they got to know us, the more food and wine they brought out for us. The little wine pitcher was fuller and fuller every time. When we finally checked out, fat and happy a week later, they presented one of the pitchers to us as a gift.

We may just make a yearly foodcation to Istria.

So. Hungry now?

Agrotourism Gologorički Dol

The wine pitcher they gave to us. It's so proud. It seems to say, look at me, I’m here to serve you wine!

More photos of the farm:

Agrotourism Gologorički Dol

Agrotourism Gologorički Dol

Agrotourism Gologorički Dol

Agrotourism Gologorički Dol

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An Autumn Trek through the Vineyards

A few weeks ago on a sunny, warm, autumn weekend, we decided to hike along a portion of the Rheinsteig trail in Martinsthal, above Eltville. As we were in the Rheingau wine region, the landscape was naturally draped in vineyards. One of which our friend decided to hike through. Straight up the hillside. A steep hillside. As I was panting up the hill (pant pant pant) between the vines, I couldn’t help but pluck off the stray grapes left over from the harvest. Mmmm…they tasted like Riesling!

Have I mentioned that I love where I live?

Anyhow, this is what we saw:

Eltville Vineyards

Eltville Vineyards

Eltville Vineyards

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Underground Fashion in the DDR

One late night last weekend, we were flipping channels when we randomly came across a documentary about the 1980s underground fashion culture in the former DDR (East Germany). The film is called Ein Traum in Erdbeerfolie (A Dream in Strawberry Foil) or Comrade Couture in English.

I’m not very interested in fashion, and God knows my own sense of personal fashion is tragic at best, but this delicious film really captivated me. It has stuck with me for the past few days.

It’s about an elite group of models, stylists, and fashion designers who bucked the system of conformity in the DDR by creating outrageous fashion design and having underground fashion shows in abandoned churches, bath houses, and living rooms, all set to punk, Goth, and New Wave asthetics. With a distinct lack of materials, they resorted to creating imaginative and freakish clothes out of whatever materials they could get their hands on, such as striped, plastic bath curtains, hospital bags used to hold organs, or, as the film’s title implies, the plastic sheets used by farmers to cover their strawberry fields.

The film includes the most gorgeous black and white photography of this group. The models look so heartbreakingly human, so stunning in these photographs, with their eyes burning into the camera, it seems. It’s fascinating to see how this group played with gender roles in their fashion, how they fought so fiercely to express themselves as individuals, how they used outlandish style to rebell against the establishment. It was the strict containment of their society that made their wild style so special.

Stylist Frank Schäfer is quoted in the film:

A tiger that lives in a cage is much wilder than a tiger that is free to roam.

As I think this film provides interesting insight into a unique aspect of DDR culture, I’ve added it to my list of German films. Also, this Der Spiegel article and this blog post provide excellent information about the film.

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Blogstipation

Cologne Dom from the roof!

The Dom spires from the roof

Well, well, well, we have a bit of blogstipation over here at Resident on Earth. So many things have been going on for the past two months that I hardly know where to begin. A big backup of blog posts!

I feel I’ve been running ragged for the past two months, with trips to Chicago, Croatia, and Belgium. Then there was a professional conference in scenic, rainy Wiesbaden, where the Shoegirl gave me a fabulous tour of her city. Two weekends ago was the fantastically fun WEBMU in Cologne (more on that in a second). I’m stinking exhausted these days! This week I melted down into some kind of weird sniffling unidentified illness.

I think I’ve had more input lately than I can even begin to process. But I shall try. Luckily, November promises to be blessedly peaceful and quiet, at least until the Christmas markets start up in three weeks. Three weeks!? I can hardly believe how fast time is passing this year.

On to WEBMU. So two weekends ago a fabulous group of bloggers from around Germany converged on Cologne for the Whiney Expat Bloggers Meetup. Though our dirty little secret is that we’re not really that whiney at all and perhaps we’ve been misnamed. ;-) Sadly, I was too busy playing host to take many photos, but I’ve linked to other blog posts below.

I had a great time meeting bloggers both familiar and new, and I dare say the weekend was a success. My personal highlights were a fantastic tour of the roof of the Dom, a very tasty lunch in my favorite Lebanese restaurant in Cologne, and the optional afternoon activities, wherein a delegation of us made a pilgrimage to St. Ursula’s church and the bone room (I have loads of photos in this past post of mine). I think we all had a great time cracking each other up over the ridiculous weirdness of the church. In fact, when we saw this awe-inspiring representation of a pigeon spraying sperm over The People, we decided to form the Holy Church of the Sacred Pigeon.

The Holy Pigeon Inseminating the People with Sperm

Inseminating the people....

The other highlight of the weekend was the annual TQEQE (That Queer Expatriate’s Queer Expedition), wherein Adam led us to a gay bar in the Bermuda Triangle, Cologne’s gayborhood. You can read all about it in Adam’s post.

To those who came to this year’s WEBMU, you are an amazing group of people, and I hope to see you next year!

You can read more about the meetup in these posts:

Zurika’s Dom, dom dom dom… Köln!

Frau Dietz Does Cologne. In the WEBMU style.

The Regensblog’s WEBMU 2011 in Pictures

German Gems’ WEBMU 2011


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A Week in Istria

CroatiaThe Mann and I snapped up a cheap Lufthansa flight to Zagreb, Croatia, before we decided where we wanted to go in Croatia. At first, we thought about driving down to the Dalmatian Coast, ending up in Dubrovnik. But after we looked at the map several times, we frowned at the distance. It would be more practical to fly into Dubrovnik.

My thoughts kept returning to Istria, the heart-shaped peninsula sitting so perkily at the top of the Adriatic. I remembered three years ago how much I loved Piran, my favorite Adriatic coastal village, in Slovenia’s slice of Istria, and how much I wanted to explore the Croatian heart of it. There isn’t much travel literature about Istria, but I managed to scrap together some information from various online sources. I had heard about Istria’s beautiful landscape and culture of fresh, locally sourced food. Food? We were in.

CroatiaIstria was occupied by the Romans, and then was absorbed into the Venetian empire. Indeed, many of Istria’s villages appear quite Venetian and feature picturesque Venetian bell towers. It later belonged to the Austrian empire until WWI, then to Italy through WWII, then to Yugoslavia, and now it lies in Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy. It’s not surprising that the ethniticies and languages in this region are mixed. In Croatian Istria, Italian and Croatian are spoken.

We rented a car in Zagreb and drove the three hours to Istria. Renting a car is essential, as public transportation is for the most part non-existant. Istria is the kind of region where you just drive around and explore. The landscape is more rugged and steep than I had imagined. In the heart of Istria there are numerous rustic stone villages with Venetian bell towers. Many of the villages crown the hilltops in various scenic arrangements. Tuscany, eat your heart out!

The coast is also quite stunning in places, with clear blue/turquoise water and rocky beaches. The villages on the coastline are quite picturesque. I’ll mention those in a later post.

CroatiaOverall, I found Istria to be raw and fairly untouristed. I liked that. It just is as it is. There are some mass tourism resorts on the coast that do a good job of bussing in elderly Germans, Austrians, and Italians. Those were the main groups of tourists we saw. Few Americans were to be found.

We decided to spend a quiet week on an agrotourism farm in the center of the peninsula. We weren’t disappointed by the quality of the food we ate! I’ll write a review in a future post.

We thoroughly enjoyed our week exploring the region. The skies were clear blue, the weather was warm, and our bellies were happily full. The Mann kept commenting that Istria felt and looked like what Italy used to be like when he was a child in the 70s. And our vacation was a fraction of the price one would pay in Italy these days. We’re already talking about returning next year, before the EU gets its hands on Croatia. Maybe next year we’ll also make it to the Dalmatian Coast.

Croatia

Croatia

Croatia

Croatia

Croatia

Croatia

Croatia

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Refreshed, with a Marinade of Red Wine!

Piran, Slovenia, August 2008As summer shifts into autumn, I’ve felt a shift in my own life the past few weeks. Since March, I’ve been solely focused on my new job and all the adjustments that has entailed, including my weekly commute between Cologne and Frankfurt. In August, I passed my six-month probezeit (probation or trial period), which in Germany means you and the company date for six months and get to know each other before you decide to commit and get married for good. So now I’m really employed.

After I passed my probezeit, The Mann and I felt it was time for a vacation. Now I can start using all those vacation days! We planned for a staycation with a week in Croatia sandwiched in between. A staycation sandwich. After I got home from Chicago, the vacation began. It feels so good to be out of my normal routine for these past weeks. I’ve desperately needed the change, and the rest.

Last week we flew to Croatia for our trip. We purposely disconnected from the Internet, any computers, blogs, social media, etc. In fact, the place we stayed was so remote and rustic the Innernets seemed like a dream. It was fantastic. More on our trip to Croatia in upcoming posts!

Last night we arrived back in the Frankfurt airport. On the flight, our suitcase had been marinating in sour-smelling red wine from a bottle that had broken in someone else’s suitcase. (I’m gleeful to report that our own wine remained intact!) Luckily, the wine didn’t penetrate into the inner layers of our suitcase. So as we walked through the airport and sat down for dinner, a cloud of drunken gnats followed us. Some even clung onto the suitcase as we rode the S-bahn home. The stench was so great on the S-bahn that some people around us opened the windows (cackling…).

Ummm…anyone have any suggestions for getting red wine – and its stench – out of a suitcase??

We’re back in gray, chilly Germany, and I see that in the week we’ve been gone, the leaves are starting to turn. Mmm…autumn. I’m ready to get back into my routine next week. And I have so much to look forward to for the rest of the year: WEBMU in Cologne, a long weekend in Belgium, Christmas markets (!), and a Christmas market weekend in Vienna in December. I have a feeling time is going to pass very quickly.

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